The Team Sherpa Blog

 The Canadian rockies are a tough place. Especially in early spring. Snow, ice, rock, water and anomalous weather can all be expected and encountered at any elevation at any time. Needless to say, packing can be a bit of a challenge (or not- I usually just end up bringing it all for the early season adventures). On the first weekend of June, I left with my girlfriend Carmen, my brother Rowan and his wife Micelle and made out for a long hike up to the Geraldine lakes in Jasper national park. Rain was forecast for the weekend, and the valley we would climb up was reported to be “impassable” but having already spent the past 3 weekends in the area I was quickly learning that impassable only really meant not for the faint of heart.
 At this time of year, Canada is a pretty special place to be; especially if you enjoy long days. I like getting up with the sun and in the first week of June this makes for a very early day: 4.25 to be exact. Our group felt this to be a little optimistic, and so we were up and out of our tents at 6.00. Breakfast was a quick affair, and with full bellies we drove along the mighty Athabasca river past the thundering falls and over an “ungraded” gravel logging road to a less than obvious trail head.

The Geraldine valley and lakes are an interesting place for a long day hike. The valley itself is a massive stair case. On each landing sits a brilliant gem of a lake, fed by the surrounding glacier and snow run-off and. These flat sections are serious and hard-going. Loose talus and unstable boulder fields make up the embankments, and the green impenetrable wall of the forest means that while route finding is easy the way through is not. At the head of each lake is a sheer wall (the highest being over 90m), over which tumbles spectacular falls. And so it goes all the way up the valley- each of the 4 lakes spilling over a cliff and feeding the one below.

There is a medium grade ascent for the first 300m climb from the trail head, up through dense forest. It had started raining as soon as we shouldered our packs, and it was clear from the mud that the lower elevations had been snow bound only a week or two ago. Substantial rain had also fallen here over the past week. Slippery roots and ankle deep mud made the going tough, but at the top of the first climb we were rewarded with a great view of the first lake as the valley leveled out at the first landing. A cold wind blew off the lake, and combined with the freezing rain that was quickly turning to sleet we were all chilled through by the time we were half way around the forest lined basin.

At the head of the lake was a tangle of inflowing snow runoff streams from the surrounding peaks, and we found a way through without soaking our boots. A steep and slippery ascent along sidethe roaring outflow of the lake above was next, and just as we were entering the second landing the rain and wind stopped; and it was good luck too- just in front of us was a huge talus slope of jagged and moss covered limestone chunks. We took a short break during witch some of the stone dried out enough for us to venture on safely. I lead the group up the slope, carefully picking each stone as I weighted it. This was prime ankle twisting terrain. At the top we encountered our first little snow field, and we were now approaching the tree line. We made a beeline between two moraines that formed a gateway in the choked valley, and crossed over to the other side of a small pond that I mistook for the second lake.

At the top of this landing a huge waterfall was roaring over a stunning vertical headwall. The wall itself dominated our view point to the South, squeezed between two unnamed peaks that formed this valley. The peak to the East of our direction of travel was a rubble heap- this was clearly an avalanche prone slope, and the debris of fresh avalanches was clearly visible. While the danger on these slopes had clearly past, twisted and broken tree branches that were still soft and green littered obvious avalanche paths. The slopes on the opposing face were much different- much steeper and shaded, every five minutes or so we could here the rumble and thunder of small avalanches far up the mountain.

A thick band of trees hid the layout of the land between the pond we were skirting and the headwall. I jokingly offered my brother $40 if he stripped down and jumped in the pond; he declined the offer, pointing out the ice blocks along the banks. On exiting the forest, we encountered a broad, flat talus field of about 1km long by 300m wide. It was a vast reminder of the glaciers that had not long ago ridden these valleys, carving them and reshaping the mountains as they ground and churned everything in their path. We had a quick lunch break a short distance from the thundering waterfall, then picked a line up the head wall. On the West side of the valley was a suspect looking path on the lower slopes of the steep mountain face. It laced us loose scree, and none of us were too keen on hiking below the clear avalanche paths that ran down the slope. We decided to stay on the East side, and found our way up the scree on this side for about 100m until we hit snow.

My brother and I stepped out first on the late season snow, and traversing steeply we made for a small rocky ridge just above to see what was beyond. I led, kick stepping the way for my brother, who cleaned up my steps into a staircase for the other two that would follow. We only had one ice axe with us, and so the steps would need to be very safe. From the ridge, we had a fantastic view of the next valley floor from slightly above. The next lake was the largest of the chain, and the valley here was broad and flat, surrounded by 2500-3000m peaks. A clear way through the alpine scrub lead to the banks of the lake. Michelle and Carmen were soon up with us, and as we made our way down the other side of the head wall the sun tore through the clouds. We all stripped down and were soon excitedly chattering away.

We were now in the open alpine. I joked with Carmen that I often hike more than three or four hours up 1000m slopes just to spend an hour or two up in these altitude; up here, with no trees the world is crystal clear. Wind blows and water carves out the terrain and everything feels raw and real. There is a feeling of unbridled and primal energy in the alpine, and I would gladly double an approach hike just to be able to grab hold of a sliver of this feeling.

We kept along the East bank of the lake again, and negotiated the boulder fields once again. It was harder because the boulders were larger, but less risky because they were not mossy or wet. We crossed some steep snow a few times, directly above the navy blue and uninvitingly cold looking water. A wind was blowing up from the valley above and huge curls of cloud that had settled in below us were hitting the headwall we had just climbed and swirling upwards. We stood still for a moment, and listen to the ethereal tinkle and crash the collision of vast paper thin ice patties on the lake were produceing. It was a sound I have never really heard before- right before our eyes ice was forming and destroying itself, creating the music of a thousand crystal bells all striking against each other.

For the next hour or so, we ambled around the lake to its inlet where we again had a break at a back country campsite. The valley beyond was not visible, but what could be seen looked snow choked and difficult. We had already taken some 5 hours to reach this point, and decided to leave the upper two lakes for another visit.

Clouds were quickly moving in and a gentle snow began to fall as we turned around and headed back towards the other end of the lake. I was worried about bad weather setting in again, and pushed our group to move a little faster. I did not want to negotiate the steep talus slopes in pouring rain. Just as soon as they had come in, the clouds took off and as we approached the lip or the headwall again we were again basking in the sun.

I was half way across the snow when something came over me and I decided I wanted to glissade. I jumped out of the carefully made steps we had made on our way up, and started sliding down the hill. Some 75m down, I quickly flipped over and self arrested just above a rocky section.My brother followed suit, but using a trekking pole as a break. He began his arrest much sooner that I had- it took much longer to slow down without an ice axe. For the next half hour we all took turns sliding down the snow slope- it was a beautiful day, we were outside and in the mountains, and acting like a kid again seemed like the best response to the situation.

We took another route down the scree slope that brought us right to the plunge pool of the waterfall. The power of water is always astounding, but in early June as the snowmelt really gets going this waterfall was awesome. After a quick photo session we made our way quickly down to the next valley landing and the first lake.the hike out was uneventful except for a chance encounter with a porcupine. We scared the animal, who had been digging right beside the path. He waddled over to a tree, and slowly began climbing his way up. We must have really frightened him- you could see him panting and he was trembling all over. On reaching the car, a quick decision was made- we would head directly into Jasper for beer and pizza. It would be good for group morale. That evening we made sat around a fire and watched the sun set- at nearly 23.00.